This report reflects the situation as of 2026, based on observable trends and established scholarship on Indonesian Muslim fashion.

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Under President Suharto, the hijab was politically controversial. The state promoted a secular-nationalist identity, and headscarves were often banned in schools and government offices. Wearing the hijab was seen as an act of political opposition linked to Islamist movements. Consequently, only a minority of older or rural women wore a simple, loose kerudung (head covering).

Hijab fashion has spawned a multi-billion dollar industry in Indonesia.

In the last five years, Indonesian hijab fashion has fractured into exciting sub-genres:

Around 2010, a distinct subculture emerged: the Hijabers. These were young, affluent, urban Muslim women who refused to believe that modesty equated to frumpiness. Pioneered by influential figures like Dian Pelangi, Jenahara, and Ria Sarwono, the Hijabers community turned the hijab into a canvas for high fashion.

They mixed traditional Indonesian textiles (like batik and tenun) with contemporary silhouettes, pairing maxi dresses with sneakers, or layering bold, chunky jewelry over flowing abayas. This movement birthed the Indonesian modest fashion industry, transforming it from a niche market into a multi-billion-dollar economic powerhouse.

Indonesia’s high social media penetration (over 190 million active users) has been the primary engine of hijab fashion’s transformation.