The Indonesian relationship with the headscarf has not been static. Before the late 1970s, the kerudung (a simple, loose head covering) was largely worn by older, rural women or those in traditional Islamic boarding schools (pesantren). It was often seen as a marker of conservatism, not style. In the New Order era under Suharto, the hijab was actually stigmatized, associated with political opposition.
That changed dramatically in the 1990s, a period known as the "Islamic awakening." As political reforms took hold and access to satellite television brought Middle Eastern influences, urban university students began wearing the jilbab (the more form-fitting modern hijab) as a statement of identity. However, the true explosion happened in the 2010s with the advent of social media.
Indonesia is famously the "Twitter Nation" and has one of the highest Instagram penetrations globally. A generation of young, educated women realized they didn't have to choose between being fashionable and being devout. They began experimenting with layering, draping techniques, and colors. The result was the hijabers phenomenon—a movement that fused local textile traditions with global streetwear.
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Indonesia is home to the largest Muslim population in the world. Consequently, it has become one of the global epicenters for the modest fashion industry. However, to view Indonesian hijab fashion solely through a religious lens is to miss a vibrant, multi-billion dollar cultural movement.
Indonesian hijab fashion is a unique blend of deep religious devotion, local heritage, and modern trend-setting. It is an industry that empowers women, celebrates identity, and is currently taking the global stage by storm.
Indonesian hijab is distinct. Here are the most iconic looks: The Indonesian relationship with the headscarf has not
To the outsider, a hijab is simply a square or rectangular piece of cloth. In Indonesia, it is an accessory as versatile as a handbag. The signature Indonesian look is distinct from its Middle Eastern or Malaysian counterparts:
Indonesia is not just following trends; it is setting them. Since 2018, Indonesia has hosted Indonesia Fashion Week (IFW), which includes a dedicated Modest Wear segment that attracts buyers from the Middle East, Europe, and America.
Indonesian influencers like Dian Pelangi have gained international acclaim, showcasing how Indonesian street style mixes effortlessly with global trends. The country is currently positioning itself to become the "World's Center for Muslim Fashion" by 2025, a government-backed initiative to boost the textile industry. In the New Order era under Suharto, the
What is next for the industry that runs on polyester and microtrends?
Sustainability is the new frontier. Young Indonesian designers like Sejauh Mata Memandang (SMM) and Kibue are pioneering "slow modest fashion." They use natural dyes, hand-loomed tenun (woven fabric) from remote villages, and zero-waste patterns. The narrative is shifting from "10 new outfits for Eid" to "one heirloom piece that lasts for life."
Tech Integration is also on the horizon. We are seeing the rise of "smart hijabs" made with cooling fabric to combat Jakarta’s heat, and even "reflective hijabs" for female motorbike riders (the primary mode of transport) to ensure road safety at night.
Finally, the fusion with international streetwear is becoming prominent. The classic Indonesian sarong is being paired with a designer hoodie and a draped silk hijab. Balenciaga meets Batik. Nike sneakers with a kebaya. The Indonesian hijabi is no longer just a consumer of global trends; she is a curator, picking and choosing what suits her identity.